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Entries from February 2011

Irrigation for a vegetable plot

February 28th, 2011 · No Comments

Irrigation I think for vegetable plots, the best is a leaky pipe system which waterers the ground slowly and does not do much damage to the soil structure. Its ok to water with a hose and hand sprayer or rose but it tends to damage the tender seedlings and encouages slugs and snails. You can […]

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Tags: Tim Whitcombe

Winter damage to Cordylines

February 28th, 2011 · No Comments

The hard winter has damaged loads of the more exotic garden plants one of which is the cordyline family. Next winter it is going to be worth protecting them with horticultural fleece in the same way that tree ferns are protected. For Cordylines that have been damaged this winter firstly remove any leaves that have […]

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Tags: Tim Whitcombe

Pointing old garden walls

February 23rd, 2011 · No Comments

If you garden walls have been created from brick and lime mortar/ Lime putty its likely you are going to have to spent some time maintaining them. The bricks have been laid using lime mortar and a harder sealing joint has been installed as a joint in the pointing process. However over the years the […]

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Tags: Tim Whitcombe

Spring chrysanthumum cuttings

February 22nd, 2011 · No Comments

If you have saved your chrysanthumum plants from last year by cutting them back potting them up and placing them in a glasshouse, they should now be starting to create new shoots. Once the shoot have reached 75mm they will be ready to cut as softwood nodel stem cutting. Place them into a rooting compost […]

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Tags: Tim Whitcombe

Plants to cover a fence quickly

February 21st, 2011 · No Comments

If you are looking for plants to cover a fence quickly we suggest suggest have a look at clematis armandii which is a quick growing evergreen clematis that can be grown on wires along the fence and in front of the fence pyracantha orange glow which is a everygreen shrub with orange berries in the […]

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Tags: Tim Whitcombe

compost/Soil for growing container lemon trees

February 21st, 2011 · No Comments

Ideally the soil for growing indoor lemon trees should have a high organic content and be a soil based compost such as John Innes compost slightly on the acid site around about a pH of 6.0 This soil pH can be achieved by mixing well rotted leaf mould into the compost, ideally the leaf mould […]

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Tags: Tim Whitcombe

Winter damage to Callestemon

February 21st, 2011 · No Comments

Callistemon or bottle brush plants – This years hard winter weather has causing them a few problem i.e the frost and snow. The leaves have become dry and brittle with frost and wind damage. Callistemon or bottle brush plants came from Australia and are not fully hardy to harsh winter conditions so its likely that […]

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Tags: Tim Whitcombe

Winter damage to tree ferns

February 21st, 2011 · No Comments

With the hard winter a lot of tree ferns have been damaged. This is due to a combination of frost and moisture. We recommend removing all the soft, mushy material in the centre of the crown after remove the straw and fleece to see if you can dry out the crown If a frosty night […]

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Tags: Tim Whitcombe

Mole Hill Soil

February 21st, 2011 · No Comments

The small piles for soil created by moles called mole hills are worth saving to create your own potting compost. Moles only tend to work in a well structured loan soil and the action of digging the soil creates a well structured soil ideal for compost. Traditionally mole hill soil was one of the sources […]

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Tags: Tim Whitcombe

Growing Vegetables next to bulbs

February 21st, 2011 · No Comments

Growing vegetables next to bulbs you should be fine, bulbs in most cases cannot be eaten except in the case of such plants as garlic but as a general rule they are not poisonous and planting the vegetable next to the bulbs will act as a type of companion planting.

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Tags: Tim Whitcombe

Geranium Cuttings

February 21st, 2011 · No Comments

Geranuims -One of the easier plants to propagate is a geranium from stem cuttings. At the end of the summer you can take cutting from the plants that have been in your garden over the summer to produce plants for use next year. Geranium cuttings stage by stage Remove a cutting with about 2 or […]

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Tags: Tim Whitcombe

Moving snow drops in flower

February 21st, 2011 · No Comments

Moving snow drops in flower, snow drops are best purchased or moved in whats known as the green. i.e when the bulbs are starting to shoot so you should move then now or wait until the shoots appear next season.To move them now dig up with a spade taking as much soil with the clump […]

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Tags: Tim Whitcombe

Soil for raised vegetable beds

February 18th, 2011 · No Comments

Soil in raised – lots of people are now growing Vegetables in raised beds, However some thought needs to given to the soil used to form the bed and also about maintaining the structure of the soil. Because soil used in a raised bed has slightly different conditions than normal soil conditions the most important […]

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Tags: Tim Whitcombe

Extending sweet pea flowering

February 15th, 2011 · No Comments

Sweet peas require constant dead heading if they are to continue flowering. The more you pick sweet peas the more they flower. It pays to nip back some of the growing tips of sweet peas to encourage stocky freely flowering plants. Feeding sweet peas every fortnight with a dilute liquid fertiliser will also help extend […]

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Tags: Tim Whitcombe

Mites and scale insect on indoor lemon trees

February 15th, 2011 · No Comments

If you have indoor lemon trees which are being attacked by scale or mite you its often hard to spray the safely to spray them because they are indoors near to your family and pets. However a systemic insecticide whilst normally sprayed onto the plant can also be added to the water and taken up […]

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Tags: Tim Whitcombe

Soil erosion by water

February 14th, 2011 · No Comments

A simple method to help prevent soil erosion by water in the case of a stream or rain water running down a slope is to grass the area with grass seed and plant Cornus alba, the Siberian or Red-Barked Dogwood and also plants from the willow family salix. These plants have a root system that […]

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Tags: Tim Whitcombe

Replacing a pond liner

February 12th, 2011 · No Comments

Pond liners – replacing a pond liner the best time to do this is early spring or in the late autumn. Often you can leave the old liner behind and place the new liner over the top of it. One good tip is to try and save some of the water by filling up a […]

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Tags: Tim Whitcombe

Small Black flies in lemon tree compost

February 10th, 2011 · No Comments

If you have flies in the lemon tree compost a number of solutions are possible to prevent this 1. grow some seeds around the base of the pot this has a sent that will stop the flies 2. Drench the compost in the pot with a systemic insecticide such as Provado 3. Change the compost […]

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Tags: Tim Whitcombe

Dividing a Phyllostachys aurea hedge

February 10th, 2011 · No Comments

To divide your Phyllostachys aurea to form a new hedge I would first prepare the new hedge line by digging over a trench about 30cm wide and a spades depth and adding lots of organic mater such as spent mushroom compost or well rotted farm yard manure. Then with a sharp spade ( it might […]

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Tags: Tim Whitcombe

Soggy black areas in a pampas grass

February 10th, 2011 · No Comments

At this time of year in the spring its worth checking your pampas grass plants to see if the winter has caused them any damage. Part the grass as the base using your hands ( wearing gloves at the leaves of the pampas grass can cut your hands ) and look for any areas of […]

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Tags: Tim Whitcombe